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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.